With a few 1960’s CK trucks listed on the Classifieds page today, I thought I would add some basic information about them.
1967 Chevrolet CK image by dave_7 from Lethbridge, Canada (1967 Chevrolet truck) [CC BY 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons
1964 Chevy CK Trucks
The first Bowtie truck listed is a project truck that needs a complete rebuild. That’s not all bad, it can give you something to do for a hobby or a bonding project with your kid.
The 1964 CK1500 was part of the first generation of Chevrolet C/K trucks, which ran from 1960 through 1966.
There were a few changes on the ’64 CK: the wraparound windshield was flattened out and lost a little width, the grill was redesigned, and there were some small changes in the interior design, while the body style remained unchanged.
1967 Chevy C/K Trucks
1967 ushered in the second gen of C/K trucks from Chevrolet, like the one featured in the Classified section here today. These “Action Line” trucks had some extra comfort and convenience features as GM started to move them away from the work-truck theme and into the everyday driver/commuter line-up. Some changes for ’67 included:
Body sheet metal that wasn’t supposed to rust as easily as previous models.
A coil spring trailing arm suspension replaced traditional leaf springs, as an option, for a smoother ride.
It was the only year that featured the smaller rear window.
While not originally intended to be covered in this article – here are the basics on the third and fourth gen Chevy CK trucks – because it would seem incomplete and kind of wrong to leave them out without a mention. The third generation of C/Ks started in 1973 and ran through 1987. The fourth generation CKs were produced from 1988 until 1998.
Interested in Buying or Selling a Classic Truck?
Part of the reason Classic Cars Online US exists is to help connect classic car buyers and sellers, and we’ve added several ways for you to connect – pick your favorite, or join us in all four places: (1) sign up on the Classifieds page here on the site, (2) visit and like this site’s Facebook page, (3) the Best Classic Cars for Sale page or (4) join the Classic Cars Online: Classic Cars for Sale group if you are looking to buy or sell a classic truck.
Finding Truck Parts For Your Restoration
by: James McDonald
Finding Truck Parts For Your Restoration: Classic Peugeot Truck image courtesy of Pixabay
During your search for older truck parts you may become frustrated trying to find specifically what you need. This is especially hard since these parts are no longer made, forcing you to hunt through used inventories at a variety of locations. So where do you look for accessories for the old truck? There are some places to start that can aid in your searching.
One place to start looking is right on the internet. There are alot of websites specializing in cheap parts for old cars and trucks. Many update their inventory frequently so you can quickly see if they stock just what you need for your vintage pickup truck. Shopping this way is convenient since you don’t have to leave your home and can have the parts shipped right to your door.
Another great place to find vintage truck parts is at your local junkyard. This can be a hit-and-miss proposition, depending on how large their lot is and what types of vehicles have been junked lately. Don’t underestimate the importance of trying this though as you may be pleasantly surprised at what you can find. This is also probably the cheapest method of finding old parts for any type of vehicle.
You can also visit truck shows and talk to the many vendors that sell products there. These people will travel from all over the country trying to sell their most popular items. You may not find the exact part you are looking for, but someone will certainly be able to get it for you. The contacts you can find here make it worth the price of travel and admission alone. And alot of them will specialize in specific makes.
Finally, you can look through newspaper classifieds or swap sheets. This is another good method to locate older items for your pickup, but finding what you need is more luck than anything else. If the used parts section of the paper is large and has alot of readers, the selection may be greater but you still are hoping someone will have the exact year and model you are looking for. But similar to shows for trucks you may find people placing ads for old truck parts in general. When you contact them they will surely know how to locate what you need. That makes this method a viable option as well.
No matter what year or model your truck is somebody surely has parts for it. It may take work on your end to find them, but rest assured they are out there. Restored vehicles are a large part of today’s culture. This insures that there are many vendors out there stocking just what you need.
About The Author
James McDonald writes for www.yourtruckaccessories.com where you can locate high performance truck accessories for a variety of makes and models. We strive to provide information and choices to help you out.
Custom Painted Old Truck image courtesy of Pixabay
A car with an excellent paint job is one of life’s true joys. It’s like being the kid with the best bike in the neighbourhood or the biggest piece of birthday cake. Whether you drive a ’47 Eldorado, a ’66 Beetle or an ’07 fortwo, a great paint job will take your vehicle from ho-hum to headturner.
Actually creating a great automotive paint job takes skill and finesse. Automotive painting is one of the most arduous and painstaking tasks in crafting an automobile. It can also be one of the most costly. If you are on a budget, there are options for you. Some paint shops can deliver a good paint job for a fair price. Your other option is to take on the task yourself. If the paint job is a success, you’ll have even more to brag about: a hot set of wheels AND a “do it yourself” tale to tell.
Achieving a great paint job is a step-by-step process. You simply can’t rush automotive painting. Follow the basic steps of preparation, primer application, blocking, final paint coat and detail application. This can seem like a daunting task for any beginner, but the entire job can be completed in just a few days.
Prepare
Before you begin, check with local bylaws and regulations regarding the use of spray paint in homes and enclosed areas. The last thing you need is a legal holdup delaying your painting job.
Cleaning the car is your next crucial step. The car must be spotlessly clean and free of dirt. Use detergents to clean the car top to bottom, and then follow up with grease removers. After the car has been cleaned, it’s time to begin sanding. An air sander (preferably a dual-action sander) should be used to remove the old paint from the car. This kind of sander will not cause body damage because it removes paint without digging like other sanders and grinders. Every trace of paint must be removed to create a perfect palette for your new paint job. Automotive detailing tape or even duct tape can be used to cover and protect other parts of the car, including plastic moldings and windows. In addition to removing the old paint, all traces of rust have to be sanded off. Rust will spread if ignored or untreated, and the last thing you want is body rot happening beneath your spiffy new paint. You can repair minor body flaws on the car’s surface using fillers. Shape the compound with care using a sanding board, then follow up with a glazing compound. This step will help to ensure a smooth-as-glass finish on your ride.
Mask
After the whole car has been initially cleaned, then sanded, a final cleaning takes place and the vehicle is ready to be masked. In this step, every part of the car that shouldn’t be touched by paint is covered and protected. Remember, you will be using high-grade automotive paint that doesn’t wash off with water. Cover your windows, every light and reflector, all window rubbers, all chrome, tires, wheels, door handles, wipers.. take a good look and what needs to be masked. If you don’t want even the tiniest bit of over spray on it, cover it up! The tools and materials needed for masking are available at automotive supply warehouses and hardware stores.
Prime
Priming is an essential step to providing a good foundation for your new paint. A flawless prime coat will help you to achieve a perfect paint job. Valspar epoxy is a good primer choice, combining dependable filling capabilities with minimal shrinking. After the primer has been applied, a second coat in a contrasting colour should be applied on top of the first layer. This will serve as a sanding guide. The primer should be sanded to a smooth finish, but don’t sand too vigorously or you could actually damage the body of the car. When the priming is complete, a sealer is applied and a final sanding takes place.
Finishing off
In finishing off the automotive painting, it is essential to achieve uniform colour. The spray gun should be held ten to twelve inches away from the body to avoid streaks and runs. This is necessary when applying the basecoat, final coat and clear coat.
Regardless of the type of car you drive, a new paint job can turn it into a real showstopper. Automotive painting can be a time consuming task, but you can do it if you take it step by step. The creative energy will be good for your soul, and the compliments you receive will be great for your confidence.
1958 F600 Fire Truck Seat image By Masugn (Own work) [CC0], via Wikimedia Commons
There are some things that don’t happen often, but when they do, it is hard to think of ways around them. We are going to talk about some of these problems in this article. Hopefully they won’t happen to you, but if they do, here’s how you solve them:
Rubber and Vinyl
There is a lot of rubber and vinyl in our cars. Just about every area has one of these types of surfaces. Both rubber and vinyl are extremely susceptible to sun-provoked deterioration and UV damage. Evidence of this is dry, brittle, fading, cracking and peeling surfaces. So keep them conditioned and use dash covers, and sun shields as often as you can.
High quality reflective sun shields not only protect the dash and fabrics from direct sun bleaching and damage, but lower the temperature of a closed car up to 50 degrees. When the temperatures can easily reach 120 to 150 degrees, this can make a huge difference in the longevity of your interior rubber and vinyl areas.
Scratches
Sometimes no matter what you do, the scratch happens. Maybe it was the dog (or cat), maybe the kids, maybe it was you, but its there now.
Getting a scratch out of vinyl is a bit of a process, but most folks can handle it. First we need a good hair dryer, something that kicks out a good deal of heat, without putting direct heat on the vinyl.
Heat up the surface around the scratch real good, then use a gloved hand to gently press the scratch area, pushing enough to rub the area smooth again.
If the scratch is deep, then use a filler, such as a wax source that is the same color as your vinyl. Crayons, believe it or not, work well. Heat the area up, rub in the wax filler, then (as before) use a gloved hand to rub the area smooth.
Polish the area with a good vinyl cleaner and inspect.
If the dash is cracking or very brittle, you can put on fitted molded dash covers, which basically replace the entire dash with a new one.
How to get rid of musty smell from the air conditioner
If you experience that unpleasant musty smell from the vents when the air conditioner is turned on, you can try one of the odor treatments you can buy in your local auto accessories store. They kill bacteria and remove mildew smells. Simply spray into outside air intake vent (check directions on your can).
Clogged air conditioner drain tube and accumulation of leaves and other debris under the cowl cover also may cause damp mildew smell. Ask the mechanic to check it when you do your next oil change.
Rust stains
You don’t see these often, but they do happen. Rubber cargo liners save you from most of the sources, but if you got surprised and have the rust stain now, here is what you do.
To remove those stains, get a fresh lemon or two from the grocery store. Roll the lemon then slice it lengthwise. Squeegee the juice onto the rust spot and sprinkle it with salt. Keep the area damp with the lemon juice for several hours. The next day use a damp cloth and blot to remove.
Salt Stains
If you have gone through a winter in the salt belt, you’ll find salt embedded in your carpeting. Good floor mats are a life saver here, but none the less, let’s get the carpet clean now, and get the mats after.
“Salt” stains are usually caused by calcium chloride and magnesium chloride, not sodium chloride, according to the Carpet and Rug Institute. Rock salt has small amounts of both of these salts imbedded in it. The problem comes with solubility. Patience and lots of rinse cycles are the key and sometimes calcium carbonate forms and this is fairly insoluble. Try to vacuum most of the dry residue off before using cool to warm water and a very small amount of carpet shampoo. Once the cleaning solution has been applied, allow time for it to dissolve the deposit. Blot, do not scrub, the spot. Sodium chloride is more soluble at lower temps than at higher ones. Then rinse with clear lukewarm water, blotting up the excess moisture and follow with another water rinse and blot dry. This should work. If not, try a cleaning mixture of 1/2 white vinegar to 1/2 lukewarm water, allow to stand 15 minutes and rinse with clear water.
Tree Sap
The hardest thing to get off a car’s finish is tree sap. I suggest that you avoid it altogether by avoiding parking underneath trees, and using a good car cover.
Since you already have it however, here’s what you do.
To remove the tree sap from your vehicle’s surface, you can use finger nail polish remover on a cotton ball. After the sap is removed, make a paste of water and baking soda to wash the affected area, then apply wax.
Another method to remove the sap is to use mineral sprits (it will also remove tar). Use a soft, terry towel, or wash cloth dampened with mineral sprits. After removal, wash the car and apply wax to the affected area.
Tree sap can also be removed by using a water-soluble paint brush cleaner. A common household solution is bacon grease or lard. Just rub it on, and off comes the sap. To get tree sap off of your hands, simply rub mayonnaise on them and wash it off. To remove tree sap and other substances, you can use common solvents like lighter fluid, rubbing alcohol, WD-40 or even Skin-So-Soft bath oil.
The way to use those materials is to let them do their work of dissolving (in the case of alcohol) or softening (in the case of oils), enough to rub off the remaining sap. If you use the oil, wash the car afterwards to remove it.
You can also use commercial wax and grease-removing products available at auto supply stores. Be sure to wash and dry the car before applying the wax and grease remover. Then dampen a clean cloth with the solvent and rub the affected area. It may require several attempts if the sap is very thick or extremely hard. The surface may appear hazy after the solvent evaporates, but a good wax application will eliminate the haze and complete the job.
Removing tree sap from a car’s finish is a bit more difficult than tar, as hardened sap can scratch your paint. I’ve found that by hand-rubbing the sap spots with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol, I’m able to easily remove the sap without damaging the finish. Mineral spirits and denatured alcohol acts as a solvent to break up and dissolve the sap.
If there is a large amount of sap on the car, or if the sap has been left on the finish for an extended period of time, it can be a lot of work to remove. For these cases, you can try hitting the affected areas with a light-duty buffing compound to remove the hardened surface on the sap spots. Then you can use mineral spirits or a similar solvent to remove it. The light duty buffing compound softens the sap so the solvent can do its job. The goal is to use the least pressure possible to reduce the risk of scratching the paint. After removing heavy sap, always buff the treated areas with a good polish to clean up any marks created during hand-rubbing with solvent. The treated area must also be re-waxed.
Insect Honeydew
Parking under large trees can result in unwanted deposits of a sticky substance on the car. Most people assume this is tree sap, but the real culprit is far more likely to be insect honeydew, excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches.
Composed of sugars and other waste products that pass undigested through the insects’ bodies, honeydew becomes harder to remove the longer it’s left on the car.
If you remove the honeydew and park under the tree again, you’ll just end up with more sticky stuff dripping down on your vehicle. You may be able to dislodge and reduce the numbers of offending aphids in the tree by blasting overhanging branches with a forceful stream of water from a hose. Unfortunately, a hard stream of water does not help much if the source of honeydew is scale insects.
Spraying with insecticides is rarely needed to protect the health of the tree.
Comparison of Diesel and Gasoline Engines
by: John Stafford
Chevy Truck image By Hiphopchronicle (Own work) [CC BY 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons
In the transportation industry there are two major types of engines. These are the diesel engine and the gasoline engine. The diesel engine can be found more commonly in the larger vehicles such as buses and trucks but the gasoline engine has remained the most popular engine in cars. There reason for this may not be clearly apparent at a first glance as it seems that the only difference in the engines is the fuel type. This is however a large misconception as the inner workings of the engines also differs.
There are however some overlapping areas. These include areas that can be used by manufacturers to produce the best vehicle engine in terms of efficiency and power. The two types of engines are similar in terms of the fact that they both contain cylinders. The number of cylinders however may vary from engine to engine and is largely determined by the make of the vehicle they are designed for.
There are three main configurations that the cylinders are arranged in. These are the inline, the V or the flat. The inline design has the cylinders arranged in a line in one bank. The V design sets the cylinders at opposing angles and they form the V shape to one another. The flat design also called the boxer or horizontal design sets the cylinders horizontally opposed. The configuration chosen is dependent on the car as the advantages and disadvantages can vary.
Another similarity is the combustion cycle. There are four stroke combustion cycles that are very much similar in the two engine designs. These strokes are the intake, compression, combustion and the exhaust strokes. These strokes are almost identical in the two engine types and can be seen to be the cycle by which the engines operate to produce power. The two engines also have a crankshaft that is used to open and close the valves in the combustion cycle.
While the fuel type remains the largest difference between the diesel and gasoline engines it is not the only difference. The fuel differences however are based on the combustion ratios at which the fuels will combust or explode. The gasoline will not self-ignite as there is not enough heat generated for combustion to occur. This is why there is the need for a spark plug that causes the explosion that is necessary. The diesel however requires no spark plug and will ignite when compressed.
Diesel engines therefore have much higher compression pressures than the gasoline engines. This difference is due to the fact that air alone is compressed in the diesel engine and therefore the fuel goes directly into the cylinder and allows the compression ratio to be much higher.
It is seen that the fuels also differ in the amount of carbon and hydrogen atoms. The diesel fuel has more carbon and hydrogen atoms than the gasoline making it more energy dense than the gasoline and therefore providing more energy per gallon when compared to gasoline.
In terms of efficiency it can be seen that the two engine types vary significantly from one another. It can be argued that the diesel engine is the more efficient of the two engine types. There are however some drawbacks to the diesel engine in terms of environmental issues as well as noise.
Years ago, I loved hearing train whistles. Paul Simon sings, Everyone loves the sound of a train in the distance. I still love that sound, but I want it louder.
What used to be infatuation of die cast trucks and cars as a kid, I now relate to my pickup truck. Prior to the late 1970’s or early 80’s, only trains and commercial emergency vehicles had air horns. They were not available for consumer purchase. Then truck air horns became scarcely available in 1 or 2 trumpet configurations. However, none of these horns were available with a compressor kit included. As demand and popularity grew, truck air horns became more readily available. That made guys like me sit up and take notice, but for me, those were the days of vehicles with car seats and strollers, so I didn’t own a truck.
Once I was able to have a truck of my own, there was nothing I loved more than finding a new accessory that would beef up my F-150 and give it the custom look that I feel reflects my personality. In my search for the newest flashiest and useful add on, and I came across an online video of a train sound.Trucks have been my interest since I was young.
There I was in the past remembering hearing it countless times. But I’m in the future now and looking for things for my truck. Hell yeah! I wanted that air horn kit! The sound was incredible. Just knowing I could have that on my truck and hear it anytime I chose to made my day. I ordered the quad chrome trumpet 150 PSI Kit and I swear, I was like my wife, anxiously waiting for the UPS man to deliver her newest pair of high heels. Yes, I was that obsessed! The day my kit arrived, I had to install it right away. Dinner? No thanks, I was a man on a mission.
I was in heaven the first time I blasted that baby, and every time since! How did I ever settle for a wimpy factory horn sound? It just goes to prove that boys and their toys never really disappear; they just age like fine wine.
Trucks have been my interest since I was young. After market add-on items let me have fun with my life’s passion. Visit www.truckworldaccessories.com for ideas to customize your own vehicle.
1957 GMC 9300 Truck image By dave_7 from Lethbridge, Canada (1957 GMC 9300 Truck) [CC BY-SA 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons
It has been 114 years since Rudolph Diesel applied for a patent for his new improved engine. It was hoped to replace the gasoline engine but as we can all see that this has not happened. The gasoline engine having just been invented in 1876 was still considered inefficient in fuel consumption and power. An evaluation of each engine’s performance tells a story that is difficult to reconcile with the way things have shaken out in the beginning of the 21st Century. The invention of the Diesel offered the world a far more efficient and effective fuel based engine. It actually provides more horsepower per gallon or liter than a gasoline. This is why diesel engines power our large earth moving equipment, trucks, marine engines, low mileage cars and now aircraft.
The diesel is a combustion injection engine. Unlike the gasoline engine, air is compressed first and then the fuel is injected into it. The compressed air is hot enough to ignite the diesel fuel without the use of a sparkplug. Diesel engines developed out of the earlier work surrounding two engines; the original diesel design and the solid injection system of Herbert Akroyd Stuart created in his hot bulb engine. This means that the upward stroke of the diesel engine compresses the air to where its’ temperature is between 1300-1650° F. When the piston has reached the top of its’ upward stroke, diesel fuel is then injected, combustion occurs, pressure increases and pushes the cylinder downwards. This motion is transmitted by means of the connecting rods to the crankshaft which itself turns thus transmitting rotating power to a drive shaft which powers ships, cars, generators, aircraft and even motorcycles.
During cold weather, diesel fuel thickens when the wax crystallizes. It becomes a gel and the fuel injection will not easily work. Technological advances have made this a problem of the past. The fuel lines and fuel filter can be pre-warmed, others use a glow plug in the combustion chamber to pre-heat its’ walls, some use resistive heaters in the intake manifold to warm air taken into the combustion chambers and engine block heaters are used in areas like Kansas or Nebraska when automobiles are left in the cold overnight.
Diesel engine speed used to be controlled by governing the rate of fuel through a gear system. Today the use of electronically controlled engines ECM (electronic control module) allows diesel engines to adjust their timing to start according to the environmental conditions of heat and cold, regulate the engine speed in terms of RPM (revolutions per minute) and maintain fuel economy.
Diesel engines may not have beaten its’ chief contender, the gasoline engine, but it has kept ahead in terms of heavy machine and naval engines. It has recently performed outstandingly in the area of remotely piloted vehicle engines, set amazing land speed records for racecars and motorcycles. The diesel engine has improved amazingly in the past 114 years. The use of electronics has given all engines abilities of fuel conservation unheard of in past years. This makes the diesel engine a real budget-winning contender. This year the new 2006, Volkswagen diesel won fourth place in the best mileage evaluation according to http://www.fueleconomy.gov. Diesels may prove to be the green vehicle engine of choice in the future since they have very little carbon monoxide emissions. Catalytic converters and diesel particulate air filters have made diesel engines free from particulate, nitrogen and sulfur oxides. Diesel engines may pro!
ve to be the easiest solution to greenhouse gases.
’55 GMC Pickup Truck image By Bull-Doser (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
The diesel engine has a long history that is intertwined closely with economic and other issues of the time. The diesel engine was created by Rudolph Diesel. He conceptualized the diesel engine and thought up the principle of its operation. He thought up the concept of the engine that compresses air to the degree where there is a resulting rise in temperature.
The concept followed the principle where when the air enters the chamber with the piston the air ignited due to the high temperatures. This causes the piston to move down and eliminates the need for an ignition source. When Diesel designed his engine it was in a time when there was a demand for a more fuel efficient engine as the steam engine was no where close to efficient.
It was on February 27th, 1892 that Diesel filed a patent in the patent office in Germany for his method and design for the combustion engine. He sourced contracts from companies that manufactured machines and began his experimentation stage. During this stage he constructed working models of his design in an attempt to construct the most efficient engine of that time.
It was in the year 1893 that he was successful in putting out the first model that was able to run with its own power and with an efficiency of approximately 26%. This was more than double the efficiency of the steam engines of that time and was a great stride for the efficient engine and a great start to the engines of today.
It was in February of 1897 that he accomplished a great achievement and produced a diesel engine that ran at 75% efficiency. This was the first one of its kind that was deemed suitable for practical use and was demonstrated at the Exhibition fair in France in the year 1898. This engine in particular was run on peanut oil and in Diesel’s vision was great for the small business owners as well as farmers as it used an economical fuel source that was a biomass fuel. It was his use of a biomass fuel that continued until the 1920’s and is starting again today.
In the past the diesel engine was not considered to be small enough for anything but use that was stationary in nature as they were very heavy and cumbersome. Common uses were on ships and industrial uses. Rudolph Diesel disappeared in 1913 and it was not certain whether he died a natural or unnatural death. Many thought his death was related to the politics of the time and the vast knowledge he possessed and was willing to share with enemies of the German government of the time.
In the 1920’s the engine was redesigned into a smaller and more compact version. This allowed it to be used for a wider range of applications and even in the automobile industry. The development of the diesel engine continued and it was made better and better by other inventors such as Clessie L. Cummins who worked out many of the bugs of the diesel engine such as those concerning size and weight as well as the instability of the fuel system.
WWII Era Jeep image By Chalkocat (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia CommonsJeep tops are fairly universal Jeep accessories in that everyone from casual Jeep owners to hardcore off road enthusiasts has some basic knowledge of what they’re about.
But Jeep tops can get more complicated that one might think, and while it’s hard to go wrong when making a purchase, having an intimate knowledge about them can go a long way in extending the benefits.
For this reason, we’ve dissected nearly every imaginable Jeep top to take an in-depth look at what makes them must-have Jeep accessories.
Which Jeep Top?
It’s an age old question; perhaps one that has been asked since the time of the dinosaurs. Not really, but choosing a Jeep top has always been a decision that requires a fair amount of thought.
At first glance, choosing a top seems pretty simple. The features are all plainly stated, pictures give you an idea of what to expect looks-wise, and your particular environmental situation further dictates which one you need.
But there are also many factors that aren’t taken into account when shopping for a Jeep top. Intangibles like installation and frame style are examples of lesser-known aspects, while things like road noise or insulation are factors that can only be experienced firsthand.
With this in mind, I’ll do my best to cover aspects that are typically unaccounted for.
Factory versus Aftermarket Jeep Tops
When it really comes down to it, there isn’t a huge discrepancy between what both factory and aftermarket tops have to offer.
A factory Jeep top will give you that genuine Jeep look and feel, plus the added security of sticking to true Jeep accessories that follow the same standard of quality as the vehicle itself. Aftermarket tops are for the most part similar to factory units, but with a few exceptions.
Although both versions of Jeep tops are made from the same materials, equivalent quality, and with the same purpose in mind, aftermarket tops offer certain features, benefits, or other Jeep accessories that you might not get out of factory units.
For instance, certain aftermarket tops have been optimized to reduce road noise better than a factory one. Also, in the event that your Jeep top needs replacing, aftermarket replacement options are typically cheaper than factory tops. For these reasons, aftermarket options usually make for favorable Jeep accessories when replacing aging factory tops.
Narrowing It Down
The first and most obvious way to categorize Jeep tops in terms of need is by splitting up hardtops and soft tops. Clearly, the two styles are distinctive enough that each one serves its purpose in different ways.
Jeep Hardtops
Hard-style Jeep tops are a never-fail option. They rarely if ever need replacing and provide enhancement and heavy duty protection. In addition, they offer a number of handy Jeep accessories, like power windows, a rear window defroster, and more. Hardtops come in a one-piece model, or a two-piece configuration with a removable sunroof.
On the flipside, Jeep hardtops are not easily removed and stored for those who enjoy open-air summertime driving. Hardtop hoists and storage-based Jeep accessories are available, but require added purchases.
Jeep Soft Tops
For those who love customizability with their Jeep accessories, soft tops are the way to go. Available in a variety of designs, Jeep soft tops offer the kind of versatility, comfort, and style that justify a Jeep purchase in the first place. Plus soft tops are easy to install, remove, or store.
On the other hand, soft Jeep tops aren’t exactly ideal for colder weather. Their thinner material and fabric construction leaves them with poor insulation, and also gives them an average lifespan of only 3 to 5 years before requiring replacement.
Upon Further Review…
On the other hand, soft Jeep tops aren’t exactly ideal for colder weather. Their thinner material and fabric construction leaves them with poor insulation, and also gives them an average lifespan of only 3 to 5 years before requiring replacement.
Jeep Hardtops
When it comes to hardtops, making a choice and meeting the requirements for installation is relatively easy, and getting the right Jeep top is usually a simple matter of picking either a one or two-piece top.
Two-Piece Hardtops
The two-piece hardtop is the definitive Jeep top for year-round performance in any climate.
On one hand, you get the protection and insulation of a full-fledged hardtop during the winter. Then for warmer weather conditions, the cockpit features a removable roof piece for open-air driving.
In addition, hardtop Jeep tops come with a vast assortment of unique features and Jeep accessories like a fiberglass-reinforced plastic composition for durability, an in-mold gel coating for fade resistance, rear window vents, a rear window defroster, tinted tempered glass windows, an overhead dome light, and much more.
One-Piece Hardtops
In addition, hardtop Jeep tops come with a vast assortment of unique features and Jeep accessories like a fiberglass-reinforced plastic composition for durability, an in-mold gel coating for fade resistance, rear window vents, a rear window defroster, tinted tempered glass windows, an overhead dome light, and much more.
Jeep Soft Tops
Soft tops are where matters can get a little confusing.
To start, it is necessary to determine whether or not you have a pre-existing frame, and whether it’s in usable condition. Remember that the frame is the backbone of your soft top, and therefore a worn, rusted, or misshapen frame can cause your Jeep top to install improperly, or perhaps not perform as expected.
If you do have a frame already in place, you next need to find out if it’s a factory or aftermarket frame. This will ultimately help you narrow down which aftermarket Jeep top options are available to you, since certain Jeep tops are only compatible with particular frame styles.
For those without a Jeep top frame altogether, an aftermarket Jeep top kit that includes both the Jeep top and hardware system to set it up is suggested.
Pre-Existing Factory Frame Jeep Tops
These Jeep tops are designed exclusively for use with Jeep vehicles that have a pre-existing factory frame in usable condition.
Replace-A-Tops
For a fast, efficient, and inexpensive soft Jeep top solution, Replace-A-Tops make updating your old, worn factory top simpler than ever.
The Replace-A-Top is a basic Jeep top skin that easily slips on and off your factory frame. Each kit includes only the Jeep top fabric with optional clear or tinted windows, and the Jeep tops themselves are built to factory standards, or better.
Additionally, the Replace-A-Top includes a host of other fine features, such as premium fabric construction, mildew and UV resistant material, industrial strength thread, heat sealed seams, and much more.
Trusted Jeep tops manufacturers Bestop, Rugged Ridge, and Smittybilt each offer perfectly reliable and inexpensive Replace-A-Top models.
Bestop also offers a premium option in their Replace-A-Top Jeep top made out of revolutionary Sailcloth fabric to help improve insulation and drastically reduce road noise over factory Jeep tops.
Halftops
For a sporty two-seater look and feel there’s nothing quite like a Halftop Jeep top. Combining components of several other styles, the Halftop is the perfect hybrid of unique style and rugged function.
The Halftop includes all the usual soft top functions and Jeep accessories like mildew and UV resistant-fabric, a convenient fold back sunroof, zip-out windows, and much more, but then also incorporates all of this into an unconventional sporty look.
The Halftop Jeep Top from Bestop is actually something of an exception when it comes to having the right hardware for installation. It can accommodate those who have a pre-existing factory hard or soft top frame, or for those who have no frame at all.
Halftop Jeep tops are available exclusively from Bestop.
No Frame or Aftermarket Frame Jeep Tops
These Jeep tops are compatible with Jeeps that have either no soft top frame whatsoever, or a pre-existing aftermarket frame.
Supertop
You wouldn’t think from the sleek design and intuitive features that the Supertop Jeep top has followed mostly the same formula for decades.
Sold as a complete package with all necessary mounting hardware and Jeep accessories to get your started, a Supertop is a simple yet dependable solution for adding a soft top to an open-top Jeep. Its “Set-N-Stretch” fabric won’t fade or warp regardless of temperature, and the zip-out replaceable windows come in clear or tinted.
The Supertop also gives you a variety of other premium features like mildew and UV resistant fabric, industrial strength thread, heat sealed seams, heavy duty molded-tooth zippers for easy window installation and removal, and powder-coated rust-resistant frame hardware to ensure long frame life.
Best of all, using the Supertop framework, you can easily change out your top skin for a bikini top, or remove it altogether for open-air driving.
The Supertop Jeep top is available exclusively from Bestop, and is available in a complete kit with frame hardware or in replacement skins for those with an aftermarket frame already installed.
Rollback Sunroof Tops
These soft top Jeep tops follow the same basic formula of most other soft tops with the exception of a sleek and convenient rollback sunroof for a more open-air feel.
These Jeep tops also include all the necessary hardware you need to do a complete installation from scratch, and the versatile design also allows for compatibility with a number of soft door options.
Other features of Rollback Sunroof tops include mildew and UV resistant fabric, industrial strength thread, heat-sealed seams, heavy duty molded-tooth zippers for easy window installation and removal, and powder-coated rust-resistant frame hardware to ensure long frame life.
Current rollback sunroof-style Jeep tops include the Bestop Sunrider and Pavement Ends Flip Top.
Tiger Top
Vintage and classic Jeep owners need not feel left out thanks to the Tiger Top.
Designed and custom-crafted by Jeep tops leader Bestop, the Tiger Top Jeep top is built specifically for older model Jeeps, and even comes sporting that vintage Jeep look.
The Bestop Tiger Top includes all necessary hardware for a full installation onto an open top Jeep.
Your Jeep Top Purchase
Choosing a top isn’t as complicated of an affair as one might suspect. In the end, Jeep tops are all about getting the style you want at an agreeable price.
Hopefully this article has helped you in that decision-making process in order to minimize the hassle of buying and installing the right one so you can focus on the fun part.
Now go get your Jeep top.
About The Author
Billy Han is a Web Copywriter at 4 Wheel Drive Hardware, a leading Jeep accessories retailer. 4WD, carries a full line of Jeep tops, doors, winches, tires, rims, and a full selection of Jeep top accessories.
’58 and ’59 Chevy Apache Trucks: Work Trucks That Turned Into Classics
By: Laure Justice
The classic lines of the Chevrolet Apache truck were available on Chevy trucks from 1955 through 1959, though, according to one source, the two years the name Apache was assigned to the body style were 1958 and 1959.
The Apache was part of Chevy’s Task Force truck line that ran from 1955 through 1959 (If you look at a GMC with this body style, from these same years, it’s referred to as part of the Blue Chip Series.)
According to Truck Trend Network, all ’58 Chevy trucks were created as part of the Apache line, which was redesigned for ’58 with dual headlights, a redesigned grill – it was also the first year the fleetside style of bed was offered.
The 1958 Apache came with a 283 CID (cubic inch displacement) V8 that provided 160 HP, notes ConceptCarz – though a six-cylinder option was available, too.
The ’58’s transmission came in both a 3-speed manual and a 4-speed automatic.
Sadly for fans of these old trucks, while a lot of ’58 Apaches rolled off the assembly line, and they were workhorses, not a lot of them survived the heavy farm use they were designed to provide.
1959 Chevrolet Apache Trucks
By Stephen Foskett (Wikipedia User: sfoskett) (2006 Bay State Antique Automobile Club show) [GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html), CC-BY-SA-3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/) or CC BY-SA 2.5-2.0-1.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5-2.0-1.0)], via Wikimedia CommonsAccording to Old Ride, the ’59 Apache truck was released with five new color options and a new interior design, and featured the carry-over wrap-around windshield of the ’58 models.
The ’59 also had a bigger, fancier hood ornament and restyled badges on the front fenders of the truck.
The image below is a 1060 model I found labeled as an Apache.
By dave_7 from Lethbridge, Canada (1960 Chevrolet Apache truck) [CC BY 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons
(Be sure to visit the Classified page if you are looking to buy or sell a classic vehicle, such as an Apache truck. The listings are free for sellers and for placing “in search of…” ads for specific classic cars or old trucks you are looking for.)
Classic Cars Online US: Classic car info and pictures of classic cars
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By dave_7 from Lethbridge, Canada (1960 Chevrolet Apache truck) [CC BY 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], via